Be prepared to see more Made in Vietnam or Made in Bangladesh labels on clothing in the coming years. That’s because U.S. fashion companies are rethinking their global sourcing strategies and operations in response to the Trump administration’s trade policies and tariffs, according to new research by the University of Delaware's Sheng Lu. Lu, professor and graduate director in the Department of Fashion and Apparel Studies, partners with the United States Fashion Industry Association (USFIA), on an annual survey of executives at the top 25 U.S. fashion brands, retailers, importers and wholesalers doing business globally. Members include well-known names like Levi’s, Macy’s, Ralph Lauren and Under Armour, among others.
The report covers business challenges and outlook, sourcing practices and views on trade policy.
“We wear more than just clothes; we wear the global economy, the supply chain and the public policies that jointly make fashion and affordable clothing available to American families,” Lu said. “We want to know where these companies source their products and what factors matter to them the most. It’s a classic question and it evolves each year.”
This year’s report, released on July 31, shows tariffs and protectionist policies are the top business challenge for companies, with nearly half reporting declining sales and more than 20% saying they have had to lay off employees. This was followed closely by uncertainty around inflation and the economy, increasing sourcing and production costs, and changes in trade policies from other countries.
In response, more than 80% of companies said they will diversify the countries from which they source their products, focusing on vendors in Asian countries such as Vietnam, Bangladesh, Cambodia and Indonesia. Despite the push for “Made in USA” garments, only 17% of respondents plan to increase sourcing from the U.S.
Lu shared his findings in the following Q&A:
What surprised you about the survey results? Two things surprised me. First, contrary to common perception, the results do not indicate that the tariff policy so far has effectively supported or encouraged more textile and apparel production in the U.S. This actually makes sense. U.S. mills are as uncertain about the tariff rates as our trading partners are. A U.S. company may manufacture the clothes here, but use yarns, fabrics and zippers from other countries. When tariffs drive up the cost of these raw materials, it reduces the price competitiveness of apparel “Made in the USA.” Many domestic factories are in a “wait and see” mode, holding back on making critical investments to expand production due to the lack of a clear policy signal.
Second, I was struck by the wide-ranging impact of the tariffs, which has gone far beyond what I originally imagined. Tariffs have not only increased U.S. fashion companies’ sourcing costs but have also affected their product development, shipping and overall supply chain management.
Nearly 70% of the survey respondents said they have delayed or canceled some sourcing orders due to tariff hikes. Should consumers be prepared for less variety in clothing or shortages? Later this year, we may see fewer clothing items from our favorite brands on store shelves — especially during the holiday shopping season — and many of those items may come with a higher price tag. That said, fashion companies are doing what they can to avoid passing on tariff costs across the board, as they recognize that consumers are price sensitive. Many surveyed U.S. fashion companies say they intend to strengthen relationships with key vendors as a strategic move, and there is a growing public call for U.S. companies to provide more support and resources to their suppliers in developing countries.
Sustainability is a huge issue in the fashion industry, as millions of tons of textiles end up in landfills every year. Companies say they are spending less on sustainability efforts. What would you tell companies about their sustainability efforts? Our survey suggests that sustainability can open up new business opportunities for U.S. fashion companies. Respondents said that when sourcing clothing made from sustainable fibers — like recycled, organic, biodegradable and regenerative materials — they are more likely to rely on a U.S. sourcing base or suppliers in the Western Hemisphere. In other words, even if apparel “Made in the USA” or nearby cannot always compete on price with lower-cost Asian suppliers, there is a better chance to compete on sustainability. Based on what I’ve learned from our Gen Z students — who expect better quality and more sustainable products if they have to pay more, and are critical consumers for many brands and retailers — it is unwise to hold back on investments in sustainability.
What do you see as the biggest takeaway from the survey? One key takeaway is that the $4 trillion fashion and apparel business today is truly “made anywhere in the world and sold anywhere in the world.” In such a highly global and interconnected industry, everyone is a stakeholder — meaning there are no real winners in a tariff war.
The study is also a powerful reminder that fashion is far more than just creating stylish clothing. Today’s fashion industry is deeply intertwined with sustainability, international relations, trade policy and technology. I hope the findings will be timely, informative and useful to fashion companies, policymakers, suppliers and fellow researchers. I plan to incorporate the insights, as well as the valuable industry connections developed through my long term partnership with USFIA, in my classroom, giving UD students fresh, real-world perspectives on the often “unfashionable” but essential side of the industry.
Reporters interested in speaking with Lu can contact him directly by visiting his profile and clicking on the contact button. UD's media relations team can be reached via email.
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2 min
One of the best measures of a college program is where their alums land after graduation and beyond. In addition to the impressive list of soon-to-be degree holders who have already landed excellent jobs, the University of Delaware's fashion and apparel studies program can boast a roster of alums who now have prominent positions with some of the industry's most iconic companies as well as major retailers. Faculty at UD can talk about the materials that make up the proverbial fabric of their hidden gem of a program on the campus in Newark, Delaware.
A quick snapshot of what some of the alums are up to: Two students who have developed materials for space programs, including one who developed spacesuit textiles for future lunar missions.
A fashion merchandising graduate degree holder who now is a point person for sustainability at Tapestry, the home of iconic brands like Coach and Kate Spade.
High ranking executive at Target Brands.
An alum with a resume that includes Ralph Lauren and now Steve Madden.
Textile assistant with The Kasper Group, whose portfolio includes Nine West, Anne Klein, Kasper, Le Suit and Jones New York.
Among this year's graduates is a star field hockey player from Argentina who landed a job at fashion retailer Moda Operandi; an award-winning student who will continue her pursuit of "changing the world" and making the fashion industry more sustainable as a graduate student at UD; and an entrepreneurship minor who paired her experience playing volleyball with design research that resulted in more comfortable apparel for athletes.
To speak to one of these past or future graduates, contact mediarelations@udel.edu. Faculty from the program are also available for interviews: Huantian Cao, professor and department chair; Sheng Lu, professor and graduate director; and Brenda Shaffer, associate chair and undergraduate director.
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1 min
Sheng Lu didn't have to do any research to see the impact of Shein, the China-based fast fashion behemoth. He simply looked around his classroom and saw his Gen Z students clicking through the app for low-priced, high-quality clothing that could get made and delivered with lightning speed.
But through years of analysis of the fast fashion industry, Lu, associate professor of fashion and apparel studies at the University of Delaware, is well aware of the catch: the company has been accused of wasteful use of textile and employing questionable labor practices. He can discuss the impact of Shein and other fast fashion retailers as well as questions surrounding their success and business practices.
Lu has also been working with traditional retailers to promote sustainable practices. Under his guidance, a group of UD graduates collaborated with leaders at Macy’s in sustainability, sourcing, product development, raw materials and design.
The students' research, conducted during their senior year, aimed to identify the challenges and opportunities associated with the company's shift toward a more sustainable future. By focusing on expanding the use of recycled content in Macy’s private brands, the work reflects a shared commitment by both UD and Macy’s to drive positive change in the fashion industry.
Media
Social
Biography
Dr. Sheng Lu joined the department in 2015. Dr. Lu's research focuses on the economic and business aspects of the global textile and apparel industry, including international trade, apparel sourcing, fashion supply chain, and trade policy. Dr. Lu also studies social responsibility and sustainability issues related to apparel sourcing and trade and the implications of big data and digital technologies on the fashion industry, particularly from a supply chain perspective.
Dr. Lu received the 2014 Rising Star Award and the 2019 Mid-Career Excellence Award from the International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) to recognize his research and teaching excellence. He is also the multiple-time recipient of the Paper of Distinction Award at the ITAA annual conferences. He was also invited to serve as a consultant for the International Trade Centre (ITC), co-run by the World Trade Organization (WTO) and the United Nations (UN).
Dr. Lu has achieved over 80 publications in leading academic and trade journals in the textile and apparel discipline. His works were cited by government reports such as the Congressional Research Service (CRS) studies prepared for members of U.S. Congress, U.S. International Trade Commission (USITC) official assessment on the economic impacts of free trade agreements as well as the World Bank, International Labor Organization, and the United Nations research publications. Dr. Lu and his work were also regularly featured by media outlet, including the Wall Street Journal, New York Times, BBC World News (UK), Bloomberg, Nikkei Asian Review (Japan), Associated Press, the Economist (UK), South China Morning Post (Hong Kong), and Business of Fashion.
Industry Expertise
International Trade and Development
Textiles/Leather Goods
Import and Export
Apparel/Accessories
Areas of Expertise
Textile and Apparel Industry
Fashion apparel supply chain
International Trade
Sustainability Issues
Trade Policy
Fashion and Apparel
Fast Fashion
Apparel sourcing
Media Appearances
The hottest fashion accessory right now will make you super cool: Mini portable fans
NBC News online
2025-08-07
The rapid growth of affordable accessories at online retailers like Temu and Shein is a selling point particularly for cash-strapped Gen Z buyers, said Sheng Lu, professor of fashion and apparel studies.
Tariffs drive US clothing imports from China to 22-year low in May
Reuters online
2025-07-09
"The sharp decline in U.S. apparel imports from China in May 2025 was anything but natural," said Sheng Lu, professor of fashion and apparel studies. The article was picked up by multiple outlets globally.
What Trump’s executive orders on climate mean for fashion
Vogue Business online
2025-01-23
Trump’s policies could hinder US innovation in critical areas like climate tech and circularbusiness models, ultimately weakening the country’s competitiveness in a global marketincreasingly driven by green technologies. Looser environmental regulations may alsodiminish the incentive for the apparel sector to invest in research and development ofmore sustainable raw textile materials, including those incorporating recycled fibres,according to Dr Sheng Lu, director in the department of fashion and apparel studies atthe University of Delaware.
Businesses also have adapted to the higher tariffs on many Chinese imports in the past six years. Many companies moved some manufacturing to other countries to avoid higher tariffs on Chinese-made goods.
For example, research led by University of Delaware professor Sheng Lu recently found that more than four out of every 10 American apparel companies in a survey are now importing less than 10 percent of their products from China. In 2018, just 18 percent of U.S. clothing companies were importing such a small percentage from China.
Shein denies alleged ‘widespread’ toxic chemicals in products
Yahoo Finance online
2024-05-30
"Any issues regarding the quality of its products or negative news about its business operations may trigger unexpected ripple effects and create new uncertainties for its IPO prospects," University of Delaware professor of fashion and apparel studies Sheng Lu said.
Shein Promised to Have a Big U.S. IPO. Its China Roots Got in the Way
Wall Street Journal print
2024-05-28
“If Shein can’t make it, who else has a better chance?” said Sheng Lu, an expert on the globalLutextile and apparel industry at the University of Delaware. “Shein is not in a traditionallysensitive high-tech industry. It’s just a clothing retailer.”
Meet the Gen Z-ers slowing down fast fashion by promoting sustainable clothing
NBC News New York tv
2024-04-23
"Fast fashion brands intentionally try to influence these, you know, Gen Z students through using these social media," said Sheng Lu, a fashion studies professor at the University of Delaware. "When you are still a student and you like to wear something unique, look unique and trendy, you know, financially more affordable to you. And this is exactly how these fast fashion brands make their products very attractive to this Gen Z population."
Clothing giant Shein in focus as France targets fast fashion
AFP online
2024-03-22
Shein offered an astounding 1.5 million different apparel items for sale last year, according to research by University of Delaware fashion expert Sheng Lu -- far surpassing pioneering Spanish fast-fashion brand Zara, which stocked 40,000 styles.
The bill’s murky definition of fast fashion offers little clarity around who is responsible for tracking a clothing company’s sales to gauge if it falls under this category, says Dr Sheng Lu, associate professor and director of graduate studies in the Department of Fashion and Apparel Studies at the University of Delaware.
Because fashion retailers frequently adjust their prices, sometimes several times a week, and slash tickets during the holidays to generate sales, these fluctuations further muddy the prospect of using price to qualify fast fashion, says Lu. He sees a “huge challenge” with defining the scope of products subject to the extra penalties and collecting these charges.
Research Shows Adaptive Apparel Market Underserved at Retail
Yahoo! Lifestyle online
2023-12-08
One in four U.S. residents who experience at least one type of disability don’t have enough adaptive apparel options, according to a recent study published in the International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education Journal by Hannah Laurits and Dr. Sheng Lu of the Department of Fashion and Apparel Studies at UD.
How Shein outgrew Zara and H&M and pioneered fast-fashion 2.0
Reuters online
2023-12-13
The direct-to-consumer model gives Shein an advantage over brick-and-mortar retailers, which must distribute apparel across a global network of stores and keep those locations stocked, said Sheng Lu, professor of fashion and apparel studies.
Shein, Forever 21 merger doubles down on fast fashion
CBC News online
2023-08-30
The two companies were seen as one of each other's biggest rivals. As such, many experts, including UD's Sheng Lu, saw the move as a surprise. "In terms of price point, definitely they're very, very close," said Lu, assistant professor of fashion and apparel studies.
Shein x Forever 21: ‘If You Can’t Beat Them, Join Them’
Yahoo! Lifestyle online
2023-08-24
Lu said that the partnership signals Shein’s “eagerness” to find new business growth opportunities and create a “favorable” environment that can eventually lead to a successful IPO.
US Apparel Retailers Break Up With China Amid Worries
Bloomberg online
2023-08-02
The article mentions the survey conducted by Sheng Lu, which found about 61% of apparel retail CEOs haves stopped using China as their primary supplier, up from 30% before the pandemic.
Weak demand leaves U.S. fashion brands cautious on garment orders
Nikkei Asia print
2023-08-02
Garment industry expert Sheng Lu, who conducted the survey, said the new level of anxiety about trade tensions and the eagerness to reduce China exposure was notable compared with previous studies.
Indiana’s Top Business School Proudly Partnered With Shein, Then Quietly Cut Ties
Forbes online
2023-07-11
“Shein’s prime target market is Gen Z,” Sheng Lu, professor of fashion and apparel studies at UD, said. “[It] may feel that having a partnership with a university may make them more appealing to their customers.”
Today on the show: how Shein's unusual business model helped it grow from a small internet startup to a global retail behemoth, and why it is so controversial.
America’s Top Fast-Fashion Retailer Tries to Shed Its Chinese Image. Wall Street Journal
Wall Street Journal print
2023-06-22
Shein, the China-founded ultrafast-fashion retailer that has become a favorite of young American consumers, is making an effort to reshape its public image, including addressing American lawmakers’ concerns about the origins of its cotton.
Weak U.S. demand hits Southeast Asia's garment exporters
Nikkei Asia print
2023-06-22
Sheng Lu, an associate professor at the University of Delaware's department of fashion and apparel studies, said fashion companies faced a "very challenging" sourcing environment as inflation ate into household budgets and families prioritized living expenses over discretionary purchases.
Analysis: World's apparel, sneakers hub Vietnam struggles as US ban on Xinjiang cotton bites
Reuters online
2023-05-02
"Vietnam's heavy reliance on cotton textile materials from China poses a significant risk of containing Xinjiang cotton, as the province produces over 90% of China's cotton," Sheng Lu, Director at the Department of Fashion and Apparel Studies at the University of Delaware, told Reuters.
‘Too good to be true?’ As Shein and Temu take off, so does the scrutiny
CNN online
2023-04-24
“From the history of the companies to where their products come from, it’s very hard to say you’re not related to China,” said Sheng Lu, an associate professor of fashion and apparel studies at the University of Delaware.
According to Sheng Lu, University of Delaware, Ethiopia, the fastest-growing African economy, has the lowest wages in the global textile industry. In an effort to attract foreign investors, Ethiopia has implemented the lowest minimum wage of any garment-producing country: only $26 per month, or about 23 euros.
Calls to shut down Shein, a Chinese fast fashion company, are growing
NPR radio
2023-04-30
NPR's Ayehsa Rascoe speaks to Sheng Lu, associate professor of fashion and apparel studies at the University of Delaware, about campaigns warning consumers against Chinese companies Shein and Temu.
Sheng Lu, fashion and apparel studies, says fast fashion retailer Shein is an example of “the popularity of cheap products.” But he also sees signs that sustainable shopping is gaining traction, including the boom in resale. “We need to create an environment that can really encourage companies, not just punish them, to do more to make their products sustainable," Lu said.
Chinese Shopping App Temu Wows US Amid TikTok Fears
AFP online
2023-04-09
The rise of fast-fashion retailers Shein and Temu comes as leading U.S. fashion companies seek to reduce their exposure to China with worries intensifying over growing U.S.-China tensions, said Sheng Lu, professor of fashion and apparel studies.
America can't resist fast fashion. Shein, with all its issues, is tailored for it
NPR radio
2023-10-13
"The actual cost of making, say, a $5 garment ... is far more, much higher than these $5, if you also consider the impact on garment workers, its impact on the environment," says Sheng Lu, professor of fashion and apparel studies at UD.
The Workers Who Make Your Clothes Want Higher Pay. Who Should Pony Up?
Wall Street Journal print
2023-11-06
Because of the intense market competition, factory owners in Bangladesh must also strike a balance between raising the minimum wage and maintaining competitiveness,” said Sheng Lu, an associate professor of fashion and apparel studies at the University of Delaware
U.S. forced labor laws strain China-dependent garment supply chains.
Nikkei Asia print
2023-11-13
The value of U.S. garment imports declined 22% in the year to August while quantity dropped 27%, according to figures compiled by Sheng Lu, an associate professor at the University of Delaware's department of fashion and apparel studies.
China’s exports to US endure steepest plunge in nearly 30 years
South China Morning Post print
2024-01-12
"Particularly affected by the passage of the Uygur Forced Labor Prevention Act, China accounted for 21 percent of US apparel imports in the first 11 months of 2023, marking a new low for the past decade, according to Sheng Lu, associate professor at the University of Delaware’s department of fashion and apparel studies."
Here's why women's sweaters are more expensive than men's sweaters
Business Insider online
2024-01-17
"Sheng Lu is an associate professor of fashion and apparel studies at the University of Delaware. He teaches courses that focus on product sourcing and pricing practices.
He told BI that companies typically set their prices based on the cost of goods, expected gross margin, and retail reduction, or the discount they expect to offer in the future. Women's apparel is more trend-driven than menswear and has a more competitive market. These factors can pressure retailers to heavily discount women's clothing, Lu explained."
How Your Old Wardrobe Can Fight Climate Change. Seriously.
Vice online
2024-01-30
Dr. Sheng Lu, professor of fashion and apparel studies at the University of Delaware, sees a growing consumer interest in sustainable fashion. In a 2022 study, Lu found a broad supply base for clothes made from 100 percent recycled textiles, an industry that could be worth over $7.5 billion annually by 2027 and exceed sales of regular new clothing.
Study: EU Retailers Cast Wide Net in Sourcing Recycled Apparel
Yahoo! Lifestyle online
2024-01-25
Retailers across Europe‘s biggest apparel-consuming markets are sourcing recycled apparel from all over the globe, according to a recently released study by Dr. Sheng Lu and Leah Marsh of the fashion and apparel studies program at the University of Delaware.
What U.S. Trade Data Says About Sourcing From China in 2024
Sourcing Journal online
2024-03-11
Almost two years after the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act, or UFLPA, took effect in the United States, its impact on trade patterns is palpable, new research has found.
It’s not just China that cotton-sourcing companies are swerving, either, said Sheng Lu, associate professor of fashion and apparel studies at the University of Delaware, but Asia in its entirety.
US April apparel imports from AGOA members falls by nearly a quarter
Yahoo Finance & Just-Style online
2024-06-11
Dr Sheng Lu, professor of apparel studies at the University of Delaware, told Just Style that is “concerning” that US apparel imports from members of the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA) decreased by 23.7% in value and 21.9% in quantity in April 2024 compared to a year ago.
Lu explained: “In value terms, only about 1.7% of US apparel imports came from AGOA members in the first four months of 2024, down from 2.0% over the same period in 2023. Particularly affected by the loss of AGOA eligibility, US apparel imports from Ethiopia sharply dropped by nearly 40% in 2024 from a year earlier."
Report: As African Apparel Imports Dwindle, the Time for AGOA Renewal is Now
Sourcing Journal online
2024-06-11
With those stats as a backdrop, Dr. Sheng Lu, professor and director of graduate studies in the Department of Fashion and Apparel Studies at the University of Delaware, said Africa’s opportunity for growth into a leading apparel sourcing hub hinges on the swift and long-term renewal of AGOA.
In a study released this week, Lu analyzed the region’s capabilities and capacity to take on more apparel sourcing from Asia as China continues to shed market share. “The SSA region was often regarded as one of the most popular alternative sourcing destinations thanks to its large population, relatively low labor costs, and shorter shipping distance to U.S. ports compared to most Asian [sourcing hubs],” he wrote.
26 million tons of clothing end up in China’s landfills each year, propelled by fast fashion
Associated Press online
2024-07-10
And therein lies the real problem, said Sheng Lu, professor of fashion and apparel studies at the University of Delaware.“Studies repeatedly show consumers are not willing to pay higher for clothing made from recycled materials, and instead they actually expect a lower price because they see such clothing as made of secondhand stuff,” he said.
With higher costs in acquiring, sorting and processing used garments, he doesn’t see sustainable fashion succeeding on a wide scale in China, where clothes are so cheap to make.
“Companies do not have the financial incentive,” he said.
Explainer: Why next-gen workforce is advising Macy’s on sustainability
Just-style and Yahoo online
2024-07-30
The University of Delaware's professor of fashion and apparel studies Dr Sheng Lu adds that his students have worked with Macy's over the past two years to explore innovative approaches and enhance the company's sustainability practices.
Lu has seen first-hand how these projects can give students invaluable hands-on sustainability knowledge and challenges them to apply their classroom learning to solve real-world problems.
"Students also have the unique opportunity to present their findings to Macy’s leadership team and receive constructive feedback. Such positive learning experiences are transformative and have a lasting impact on both students and myself as an educator," he notes.
Bangladesh Garment Factories to Western Buyers: You Can Rely on Us
Wall Street Journal print
2024-08-10
The 2024 Fashion Industry Benchmarking Study, a survey of about 30 major U.S. fashion companies, released in July found that 48% of major U.S. fashion companies intended to increase purchases from Bangladesh over the next two years, down from 58% in 2022.
Sheng Lu, a professor of apparel studies at the University of Delaware, said Bangladesh’s higher minimum wage and shifting consumer interest toward trendier items produced elsewhere had cut into the nation’s market share. Meanwhile, another low-cost rival, India, is gaining, thanks to its ability to produce its own fabric, which saves production time.
Bangladesh faces “some really tough situations right now,” said Lu, who helped conduct the benchmarking study.
China has turned inward to sell Xinjiang cotton after a trade ban. Will it be enough?
South China Morning Post print
2024-08-10
Sheng Lu, a professor of fashion and apparel studies at the University of Delaware, said while China’s sector will “undoubtedly remain one of the world’s most competitive” given its manufacturing capabilities, geopolitics will continue to be a drag on exports.
The giant of fast fashion Shein is suing its ultracheap rival Temu
NPR News radio
2024-08-23
Shein's new lawsuit accuses Temu of running a fraudulent marketplace. It claims Temu subsidizes its cheap prices by pushing sellers to steal designs and make counterfeits, and the irony is that Shein itself has been accused of cribbing other people's ideas, which Shein rejects. Sheng Lu is a fast-fashion expert at the University of Delaware
For some observers, though, the scale and pace of Shein’s production was something to question, not cheer. Sheng Lu, a professor in the department of fashion-and-apparel studies at the University of Delaware, has extensively researched Shein. From December 2022 to December 2023, Lu found, the company offered 1.5 million SKUs, or stock-keeping units, a term used to identify individual products. By comparison, Zara offered only 40,000 SKUs over that period, and H&M offered 23,000. According to Lu, Shein typically priced its products 40 to 60 percent lower than its competitors did.
As fast fashion giant Shein embraces AI, its emissions are soaring
Grist online
2024-09-10
Shein’s emissions are especially high because of its reliance on air shipping, said Sheng Lu, a professor of fashion and apparel studies at the University of Delaware. “AI has wide applications in the fashion industry. It’s not necessarily that AI is bad,” Lu said. “The problem is the essence of Shein’s particular business model.”
The Magic Behind Shein’s Rise Comes Under Threat: Duty-Free Shipping
Wall Street Journal print
2024-09-23
Because Shein relies on what in the U.S. is called the de minimis exemption, the impact of new regulations “could be much higher for Shein than other brands and retailers,” said Sheng Lu, professor of fashion and apparel studies at the University of Delaware.
Can anything slow fast fashion down? Lawmakers are giving it a go
Los Angeles Times print
2024-09-12
A traditional retailer may offer 1,000 different styles per year, said Sheng Lu, professor and graduate director of fashion and apparel studies at the University of Delaware. Compare that to the first generation of fast-fashion brands, Zara and H&M, which put out about 20,000 per year. Shein, he added, which has garnered the label of “ultra-fast fashion,” churns out 1.5 million different styles per year.
with consumers and regulators pushing for more sustainably made products and lower emissions, fashion companies increasingly need to assess and record their operational processes and impacts, as well as those of their business partners, Sheng Lu, a professor and director of graduate studies at the University of Delaware’s Department of Fashion and Apparel Studies, told sister publication Supply Chain Dive.
India Sourcing Is on the Rise, Is the Industry Prepared?
Sourcing Journal online
2024-12-04
India’s sourcing star is on the rise, but industry discourse isn’t yet reflecting the magnitude of the country’s influence on the apparel sector.
Now the third most utilized clothing production base for U.S. companies, India’s unique capabilities and benefits shouldn’t be discounted, according to Dr. Sheng Lu, professor of fashion and apparel studies at the University of Delaware. The country is experiencing a “surge in popularity,” but it’s remained less visible than other leading Asian apparel suppliers like China, Vietnam and Bangladesh.
Worldview | China Still Dominates US Fashion Sourcing Mix
Business of Fashion online
2024-11-24
Using a snapshot of the top 10 suppliers of clothing products to the United States from January to October, an industry expert has found that China accounted for nearly 61 percent of imports with around 62,000 SKUs. India and Vietnam came a very distant second and third place respectively with just 15,000 SKUs each. Despite moves by American brands and retailers to ‘de-risk’ or diversify away from China, major alternative sourcing countries like Cambodia and Bangladesh registered with just 3,500 and 3,000 SKUs respectively, according to Sheng Lu, professor of fashion and apparel studies at the University of Delaware, speaking at the recent Apparel Importers Trade & Transportation Conference presented by the USFIA in New York. “I think you see that it will take [even more] time for companies to find China’s alternative,” said Lu, referring to China’s competitiveness in terms of capabilities and clusters if not price, compared to the group of “Asia five” countries gradually increasing supply volumes, which also includes Indonesia
To Renew or Not to Renew? What AGOA Means to Apparel Sourcing
Yahoo
2024-11-20
“If you compare those products we import from Asia versus from AGOA, AGOA is mostly about basic products,” said Sheng Lu, professor of fashion and apparel studies at the University of Delaware.
Even with AGOA’s so-called “third-country fabric rule,” which allows eligible countries to import textiles from anywhere in the world and still qualify for preferential treatment for their finished goods, the bulk of AGOA imports comprise cotton or polyester rather than more specialized fibers such as viscose spandex. This, to Lu’s point, limits Africa’s export competitiveness in the absence of anything else to sweeten the deal.
The truth behind your $12 dress: Inside the Chinese factories fuelling Shein's success
BBC online
2025-01-12
"This is about their reputation," says Sheng Lu, a professor in Fashion and Apparel Studies at the University of Delaware. "If Shein can successfully achieve an IPO then it means they are recognised as a decent company. But if they are to keep the confidence of investors, they have to take some responsibility."
Will President Trump Redraw Fashion’s Global Sourcing Map?
Business of Fashion online
2025-01-20
It’s smaller companies like Never Fully Dressed that are particularly vulnerable to tariff disruptions because of their narrow sourcing base, according to research by Dr Sheng Lu, professor and director of graduate studies in the fashion department at the University of Delaware in the US.
Dr Lu authored a 2024 USFIA benchmarking study demonstrating that apparel companies in the US with fewer than 1000 employees (amounting to 99 percent of such companies) tend to source mostly from ten or fewer countries, and a third of them from five or fewer, with China being a sourcing country in every case.
“SMEs don’t have the resources to establish [broad] vendor relationships,” said Dr Lu. “China offers a wide range of product categories, in contrast to Vietnam and Bangladesh [for example] which tend to be more specialised”. Furthermore, “Vietnam and Bangladesh typically require high minimum order quantities (MOQs) of 3000 to 4000 pieces, which does not meet [SME] business needs...in the 200-300 pieces range. Only China can do that, and with the breadth of products [that SMEs require].”
H&M’s Evolving Sourcing Map Speaks to Global Supply Chain Shifts
Sourcing Journal online
2026-05-04
That’s evidenced in recently released supplier data from international fast fashion H&M. Many similarly positioned brands have stepped back from public-facing annual reports in recent years, but according to Dr. Sheng Lu, professor of apparel and fashion studies at the University of Delaware, assessing sourcing patterns on a brand level can yield invaluable insights into the fashion supply chain as a whole. “I think the fast fashion business model itself has had a lot of changes. This is not a static business model. And I think with the emergence of AI, with the emergence of the new tariff regime, and also the consumer’s growing interest in consuming sustainable products, this model will continue to evolve,” he told Sourcing Journal.
Why Fashion Companies Like Levi’s Are Pushing for a 15‑Year AGOA Extension
Sourcing Journal online
2026-05-19
A submission to USTR by Sheng Lu, professor of fashion and apparel studies at the University of Delaware, revealed the magnitude of that challenge. A study he conducted found that African apparel exports lack product variety and fiber diversity. They're also roughly 84 percent more likely to incorporate recycled textile materials than Asian products, despite no significant difference in the use of organic fibers or sustainability certifications, he said.
"The study's findings demonstrate that tariff preferences alone have not enabled SSA countries to develop the broader manufacturing capabilities necessary to compete with Asia at scale," Lu added, using an acronym for Sub-Saharan Africa. "A modernized AGOA should go beyond tariff preferences to include targeted support for developing textile manufacturing capacity in SSA. Specifically, USTR should consider linking AGOA eligibility or expanded benefits to demonstrable investment in domestic textile production, including yarn spinning, fabric weaving and dyeing and finishing."
How Levi's jeans became an essential piece of American culture
USA Today online
2026-04-15
In the 1960s and 1970s, more than 50% of apparel consumed in the United States was locally made, according to Sheng Lu, a professor at the University of Delaware and an expert on the global textile and apparel industry. Now, only about 2% of apparel worn in the U.S. is still made in the U.S., Lu said.
“I think what Levi's did really reflected the history of the U.S. domestic fashion and apparel industry,” Lu added. “If you look at their company's website and their self-description, they no longer call themselves manufacturers. Instead, their main business function is to design the clothing and focus on marketing, branding, and also reaching out to consumers around the world.”
Mango Aims To Raise Quality And Fashion Quotient On Multiple Fronts.
Forbes online
2026-05-20
“If Mango wants to elevate its product, it needs to continue to strengthen its fabric capabilities, which means continuing to contract in China,” said Sheng Lu, Professor and Director of Graduate Studies, Department of Fashion and Apparel Studies at the University of Delaware. “Given Mango’s business model, regarded as relatively fast fashion, they’re trying to make their products fashionable but also more sustainable. “Mango pays a lot of attention to using preferred fibers and sustainable fibers. Mango will prioritize where they want to source the product, making different types of products rather than just being cheap,” Lu said, noting that nearly 40% of Mango’s factories are in China. “Mango also has factories in Spain and Eastern Europe. In terms of textile supply capability, including fabric innovation, China can’t be beat, but it’s expensive, and there’s concern about tariffs."
Migrant workers behind "Made in Italy" luxury labels fight for better conditions.
Marketplace radio
2026-06-05
“You have 100 components and each factory only makes one component, so you need all of them to function properly,” said Sheng Lu, a professor who studies the global apparel industry at the University of Delaware.
Lu said the fractured nature of the industry in Prato makes it nimble, so brands can respond to customer demand quickly.
“But at the same time, if even one of them cannot produce the products on time, the entire supply chain can be disrupted,” he said.
Eileen Fisher’s Renew Brand Logs 3 Million Items Returned
Forbes online
2026-06-10
“We need more established business cases like Eileen Fisher to encourage more participation in circularity by fashion brands and retailers,” said Sheng Lu, Ph.D., Professor and Director of Graduate Studies, Department of Fashion and Apparel Studies, University of Delaware. “Hopefully, the newly implemented regulations, such as the extended producer responsibility, can create financial incentives and level the playing field.”
“While three million is an impressive number,it accounts for only a tiny fraction of the billions of dollars in clothing sold in the U.S.each year. The success of Eileen Fisher’s Renew brand and why scaling up recycling has been challenging is not the recycling technology, it’s the so-called ‘reverse logistics,’ said Lu, referring to the supply chain process of moving backward from the end buyer to the retailer or manufacturer.
With that in mind, Cider likely won’t stray too far from its core focus on fashion, one of its most notable strengths compared to Shein, according to Sheng Lu, a fashion and apparel studies professor at the University of Delaware.
“Cider presents itself differently,” he said. “They’re more specific. Shein covers a huge demographic, while Cider is targeting these more fashionable Gen-Z consumers.”
“Few know that many of their donated clothing [items] are exported for a profit,” says Sheng Lu, an expert in the global textile and apparel industry at the University of Delaware. Discarded secondhand clothing from Europe, North America, and East Asia are sold to companies in places like northern India, says Lu. There, they’re shredded by thousands of workers in order to be turned into low-grade yarn used for things like rugs and sheets—exposing those workers to serious health risks.
The problems piling up at fast-fashion giant Shein
Financial Times print
2026-02-20
“The investigation is about more than just some narrow products sold by Shein, italso concerns the company’s business model and how it engages with consumers,”said Sheng Lu, a professor at the University of Delaware. “This could pressure Shein to make significant changes to its platform, from how itpromotes its products to what it could sell.”
Sheng Lu, director of the department of fashion and apparel studies at the University of Delaware,China’s share of US apparel imports dropped from 20.9% in 2024 to 13.7% in 2025 — a structuralchange driven directly by tariff pressure. US fashion companies moved aggressively towardemerging suppliers in Cambodia, Pakistan, Jordan and Sri Lanka, while overall US apparel importgrowth lagged peer markets significantly: just 1.7% in the first 10 months of 2025, against 6 to11% growth in the EU, UK and Japan.
Exclusive: Shein Wants Brands to Use Its Supply Chain. Should They?.
Business of Fashion online
2026-03-12
For Shein, it’s a way to diversify its business and maintain growth in the face of mountingreputational and regulatory pressures as it moves towards an IPO, said Sheng Lu, professor offashion and apparel studies at the University of Delaware, who noted that data from Euromonitorshows the company lost market share in the US last year for the first time since 2021.
Dr. Sheng Lu, director of fashion and apparel studies at the University of Delaware, has mapped the EU export dependency of the world’s major apparel sourcing countries. Over 75% of Europe’s apparel imports from Asia typically pass through the Red Sea corridor. Türkiye, Bangladesh, and Pakistan are the most acutely exposed sourcing countries...Dr. Lu’s analysis adds a pricing dimension: because demand for categories like women’s dresses is more price-sensitive than wardrobe essentials or childrenswear, brands will find it hardest to pass input cost increases through at retail precisely where synthetic-fiber dependency is highest.
Is Shopping Secondhand the Perfect Tariff Loophole?
Money online
2025-09-25
“When Gen Z consumers see the price go up for regular clothing, they’re more interested in purchasing secondhand clothing,” says Sheng Lu, a professor of fashion and apparel studies at the University of Delaware. Their influence, combined with broader economic pressures, has helped transform resale from a niche choice into a mainstream habit.
Australian wool prices skyrocket amid China 'panic' over supply concerns
Nikkei Asia online
2025-10-03
Sheng Lu, an apparel expert at the University of Delaware, said limited wool supply had already impacted the retail market. The number of units of apparel containing merino wool for sale by major U.S. brands between May and the end of September had dropped 18%, according to his research. Merino is considered the softest and finest wool available. Australia is the largest producer.
Retailers, especially those in the luxury sector, have started raising the selling price, he said, giving the example of an 8% rise for a dress made with merino wool.
While the recent surge could push prices up further, "this may not happen immediately, given the long supply chain and retailers' reluctance to raise prices too sharply and risk losing customers," he said.
Is Now The Time to Attract Long-Term Investment for Domestic Production?
Sourcing Journal online
2025-10-01
At Sourcing Journal’s annual Fall Summit, Joseph Ferrara, co-founder and CEO of U.S.-based Ferrara Manufacturing; Sheng Lu, professor & graduate director of fashion & apparel studies at the University of Delaware and Bill McCann, executive director of the United States Footwear Manufacturers Association (USFMA), joined Kate Nishimura, senior news & features editor at Sourcing Journal, to discuss the outlook for made in the U.S.
How an Oklahoma denim-maker supports creating American-made jeans
NBC news online
2025-08-13
The U.S. lacks the capacity, materials and technology to meet fashion companies’ sourcing needs, said Sheng Lu, a professor of fashion and apparel studies at the University of Delaware. He also sees no clear evidence that tariff policies have driven fashion companies to source more domestically. In his 2025 Fashion Industry Benchmarking Study, over 80% of apparel companies said they plan to diversify sourcing to offset tariffs, while just 17% expect to increase sourcing from the U.S.
Impact of textile raw material access on CAFTA-DR members’ apparel exports to the United States: a quantitative evaluation
The Journal of The Textile Institute
Sheng Lu
2023
This study quantitatively evaluated the impact of textile raw material access on Dominican Republic-Central America Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA-DR) members’ apparel exports to the United States. Results from the computable general equilibrium (CGE) model show that improving CAFTA-DR garment producers’ textile raw material access would significantly enhance the price competitiveness of their apparel exports to the United States and increase the export volume. However, improving CAFTA-DR garment producers’ textile raw material access would primarily benefit Asian textile suppliers but result in CAFTA-DR members’ reduced dependence on the U.S. textile raw material supply. The study’s findings provided new insights into the textile and apparel trade patterns in the Western Hemisphere and offered valuable inputs contributing to the public policy debate on expanding U.S. apparel sourcing from CAFTA-DR members from a unique supply chain perspective.
Explore U.S. retailers’ merchandising strategies for clothing made from recycled textile materials
International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education
Ally Botwinick, Sheng Lu
2022
This study explored U.S. retailers’ unique merchandising strategies for recycled clothing based on a logistic regression analysis of 16,000 Stock keeping Units of apparel items sold in the U.S. retail market from 2018 to 2021. The statistical analysis shows that U.S. retailers adopt distinct product assortment strategies for clothing made from recycled materials in terms of colours, design patterns, and product categories, compared with regular new clothing. Also, U.S. retailers were statistically more likely to price recycled clothing lower than the market average but more likely to target them for the luxury and premium market segments. The study's findings create timely new knowledge about the business aspects of clothing circularity and reveal the necessity of improving recycling technologies and changing consumers’ perceptions of recycled clothing's values.
Are China’s Apparel Imports a Growing Opportunity for Asian Developing Countries (ADCs)?
Journal of Chinese Economic and Foreign Trade Studies
Sheng Lu
2026-06-01
As China transitions from the world's largest apparel exporter to an increasingly important apparel import market, this study examines how apparel sourced from Asian developing countries (ADCs) competes with domestically produced apparel in China's retail market. The findings provide insights into emerging sourcing opportunities and the evolving competitiveness of Asian apparel manufacturing.
The results show that apparel imported from ADCs occupies a distinct market position in China. Compared with domestically produced apparel, ADC imports are more likely to be competitively priced, consist of staple products requiring frequent replenishment, offer fewer color and size options and use simpler fiber compositions. However, imported products are no less diverse in product categories than those made in China. Notably, ADC apparel is also more likely to incorporate recycled and organic textile materials, suggesting that many suppliers have strengthened their sustainability capabilities to meet evolving market demand.
The findings indicate that China's growing apparel import market presents expanding export opportunities for manufacturers in Asian developing countries. At the same time, the results suggest that many ADC suppliers have moved beyond competing primarily on low labor costs and are increasingly capable of delivering products that meet retailers' expectations for value, reliability and sustainability. These insights can help apparel brands, sourcing executives and policymakers better understand China's changing role in global apparel sourcing and identify opportunities for regional trade and industrial development.
The top business challenges facing U.S. fashion companies center on the Trump Administration’s escalating tariff policy and its wide-ranging impacts on companies’ sourcing and business operations. In taking the #1 spot, this challenge rose from #5 in 2024 and #11 in 2023, showing the increasing concern over the last few years. 100% of respondents rated “Protectionist U.S. trade policies and related policy uncertainty, including the impact of the Trump tariffs” as one of their top business challenges in 2025. Over 70% of surveyed companies reported that the higher tariffs increased sourcing costs, squeezed profit margins, and led to higher consumer prices. Tariffs have been the most significant factor driving sourcing cost increases for U.S. fashion companies in 2025. Amid higher tariffs and policy uncertainty, about 65 percent of respondents feel optimistic about the next five years in 2025, a decline from 75 percent one year ago.
Does Shein Redefine Fast Fashion Merchandising Strategies? A Product-Level Analysis in the U.S. Retail Market
Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
Sheng Lu, Noelle Mullen
2024-07-29
This study explored Shein’s “ultra-fast fashion” merchandising strategies as opposed to Zara and H&M, two of the most representative conventional fast fashion retailers. A statistical analysis of the detailed product assortment and pricing information of 12,000 apparel items at the Stock Keeping Unit (SKU) level sold by Shein, Zara, and H&M in the U.S. market between January 2022 and December 2023 was conducted. Results show that Shein’s merchandising strategies differ statistically from Zara and H&M. Such distinctions can be observed through Shein’s deliberate adoption of a narrower product assortment, substantial investments in trendy clothing over plain-style staple items, a significantly lower product replenishment rate, and a more conservative discount rate. The findings offer unique insights into Shein’s business secret and deepen our understanding of the evolving fast fashion business model.
Is Sub-Saharan Africa ready to serve as an alternative apparel-sourcing destination to Asia for US Fashion companies? A product-level analysis
Competitiveness Review
Sheng Lu
2024-06-10
The prospect of Sub-Saharan Africa (SSA) as an apparel-sourcing base for US fashion companies has been a growing heated debate among academia, industry practitioners and policymakers. This study aims to evaluate SSA countries’ readiness to serve as an alternative sourcing destination to Asia for US fashion companies, focusing on comparing the similarities and differences of US apparel imports from these two regions at the product level.
Statistical analysis shows that US fashion companies seemed to leverage SSA countries as suppliers of “niche products,” such as those relatively simple and basic apparel categories containing African cultural elements and targeting the luxury and premium market segment. However, the range of apparel products available for US fashion companies to source from the SSA region remained significantly more limited than those from Asia. Also, US apparel imports from SSA countries were primarily made of cotton and polyester, with less use of other fiber types, including nylon, rayon, viscose, wool and those made from recycled textile materials.
Importing Clothing Made from Recycled Textile Materials? A Study of Retailers’ Sourcing Strategies in Five European Countries
Sustainability
Leah Marsh and Sheng Lu
2024-01-27
This study examined retailers’ sourcing strategies for clothing made from recycled textile materials in the five largest European clothing retail markets (i.e., the UK, Italy, France, Germany, and Spain), given the increasing availability of such products. The multivariate analysis of variance (MANOVA) was conducted based on the detailed country of origin and product assortment information of thousands of such clothing items for sale in these five EU countries from January 2021 to May 2023. The results show that EU retailers sourced clothing using recycled textile materials diversely from over 40 developing and developed countries across Asia, America, Europe, and Africa. The geographic location of supplying countries statistically affects the detailed assortment of recycled clothing that EU retailers import. However, apart from assortment diversity, no statistical evidence indicates that developing countries had advantages over developed ones regarding product sophistication, replenishment frequency, and pricing in the five EU markets. The study’s findings offer new insights into the business aspects of recycled clothing and reveal promising global sourcing opportunities for such products. The results also imply a potentially significant shift in global apparel trade patterns as retailers embrace fashion circularity and expand sourcing clothing made from recycled textile materials.
Exploring U.S. retailers’ merchandising strategies for adaptive clothing: a focus on product assortment and pricing practices
International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education
Hannah Laurits, Sheng Lu
2023-12-01
With society’s increasing call for more inclusivity in the fashion industry, adaptive clothing, designed for people with disabilities (PWD), has rapidly emerged as a critical and high-potential product category for U.S. retailers. By analysing thousands of clothing items in the market from 2018 to 2022 at the Stock Keeping Unit level, this study analysed U.S. retailers’ merchandising strategies for adaptive clothing. The logistic regression revealed that, statistically, adaptive clothing in the U.S. retail market looked more ‘boring’ and exhibited lower availability in several categories, including dresses, outerwear & suits, and underwear. Also, compared with nonadaptive ones, adaptive clothing statistically was more likely to be priced higher than the market average. The findings generated critical new knowledge about the business aspect of adaptive clothing by adding a valuable retailers’ perspective. The results also call for efforts to make adaptive clothing more diverse in product categories and financially affordable to PWD.
Can garment production survive in a developed economy in the 21st century? A study of “Made in Ireland”
Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
2023
Purpose Given the heated academic and policy debate regarding the fate of garment manufacturing in a high-wage developed economy in the 21st century, this study aims to explore the production and export strategies of apparel “Made in Ireland.” Design/methodology/approach A logistic regression analysis of 4,000 apparel items at the stock keeping unit (SKU) level sold in the market from January 2018 to December 2021 was conducted to evaluate the production and export strategy of apparel “Made in Ireland” versus foreign-made imported items sold in Ireland.
Are fashion majors ready for the era of data science? A study on the fashion undergraduate curriculums in US institutions
International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education
Lora Merryman, Sheng Lu
2021
As the fashion industry is becoming ever more data-driven, this study intends to understand whether the current fashion curriculums in U.S. education institutions have sufficiently introduced fashion majors to the topic of data science and prepared students for related skillsets. The results of MANOVA analysis based on course information collected from 45 fashion curriculums offered by leading U.S.-based fashion programmes show that: First, fashion programmes, in general, have incorporated some but very limited data science-related courses into the fashion curriculum. Second, school affiliation and programme type are two factors that have statistically significant impacts on fashion programmes’ adoption of data science-related courses to the curriculum. Third, the current fashion curriculums are too rigid to allow more data science components without adding additional credit burdens. The findings call for a more balanced fashion curriculum to develop students’ data science-related skillsets and suggest rethinking the future of fashion education in U.S. colleges.
Explore U.S. Retailers’ Sourcing Strategies for Clothing Made from Recycled Textile Materials
Sustainability
Sheng Lu
2023
This study explored U.S. retailers’ sourcing patterns for clothing made from recycled textile materials. Based on a statistical analysis of over 3000 such clothing items for sale in the U.S. retail market from January 2019 to August 2022 at the Stock Keeping Unit (SKU) level, the study found that U.S. retailers adopted a diverse sourcing base for clothing made from recycled textile materials, covering developed and developing economies worldwide. Additionally, an exporting country’s economic development level and geographic location had statistically significant impacts on U.S. retailers’ sourcing patterns for clothing made from recycled textile materials regarding assortment diversity, product sophistication, market segments, and pricing. The study’s findings revealed the broad supply base for clothing made from recycled textile materials and suggested promising sourcing opportunities for such products. The findings also indicated that sourcing clothing made from recycled textile materials may help U.S. retailers achieve business benefits beyond the positive environmental impacts.
