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Are China's New Policies Opening Up China?
For centuries China has been known as a closed country. When the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) started enforcing immense cultural and political influence, it acted as a catalyst for China's closed country status. Then the Qing dynasty (1644-1912) made the closed country status official by expanding China's political, cultural and administrative structures. Now after over 600 years, China is announcing they may become more open than they have in past centuries. China is not fully becoming open, but there are two ways China is hoping to re-establish its reputation among other countries. In 2024 China announced they are enabling a temporary visa-free policy, that permits visitors from 43 countries to visit China without visas for short trips lasting only a few days. China installed this policy with hopes of promoting global goodwill and to encourage tourism and business travel. Now in 2025, China says they will implement policies that will promote stable foreign trade growth and improve services for enterprises. While this new policy is just beginning, the visa-free policy will end at the end of 2025. So, while China says they are becoming more open, they mean they are welcoming foreign businesses and investors. They are currently not becoming open religiously, politically, socially or economically. Citizens, even visitors, still remain under strict censorship, surveillance and political control. These policies also don't mean that foreign companies will no longer experience restrictions, forced partnerships with Chinese firms, data rules, and unexpected regulatory pressure. These things will still continue to occur. China is being selective on what these policies entail and how long they will last. Since the COVID lockdowns and now with the real estate crashes and youth unemployment, China has felt its economy slowing. It's their hope that these new policies will help boost China's economy. Economic Perspective: Dr. Jared Pincin is an expert on economics and is available to speak to media regarding China's economy – simply click on his icon or email mweinstein@cedarville.edu to arrange an interview. International Relations Perspective: Dr. Glen Duerr, professor of international studies at Cedarville University and a citizen of the United Kingdom, Canada, and the United States, is a nationally known expert on this subject and is available to speak to on China's new policies. To schedule an interview, email Mark D. Weinstein, executive director of public relations at Cedarville University at mweinstein@cedarville.edu or click on his icon.
What's Happening with the Iran Conflict?
Since 1997, Iran has vowed "death to America." It hasn't always been that way though, but over the course of seven decades the relationship has changed from being close allies to enemies. America isn't the only country having conflict with Iran. For over 45 years, Israel has been fighting with Iran. There are currently 10 countries that have conflict with Iran. Tensions between Israel and Iran rose higher in April 2024, when Iran launched its first-ever drone and missile attack on Israel. This conflict extended into June 2024, then grew quiet while remaining unstable. On June 13, 2025, Israel launched surprise attacks on Iran due to Iran's imminent threat of constructing nuclear bombs. America, known for being philosemitic, launched its own attack on Iran which President Trump said "obliterated" their nuclear plants. White House Press Secretary, Karoline Leavitt reminded Americans that America has "the best and most lethal fighting force in the world." While updates are continually being given on the war. President Trump is working on negotiating a ceasefire between Israel and Iran. Dr. Glen Duerr, professor of international studies at Cedarville University and a citizen of the United Kingdom, Canada, and the United States, is a nationally known expert on this subject and is available to speak to on the conflict going on in Iran and the implications it has for America. To schedule an interview, email Mark D. Weinstein, executive director of public relations at Cedarville University at mweinstein@cedarville.edu or click on his icon.
Why Did NATO Assembly Select Dayton, Ohio?
Why was Dayton, Ohio selected to host the 2025 Spring NATO Parliamentary Assembly? Ohio's Gem City will host 282 NATO members and nearly 100 partner legislators for gathering. This is the first time in 20 years that a U.S. city held this meeting. The NATO civilians are gathering at The NATO Village, a secure location in downtown Dayton, to discuss critical issues in relation to NATO's defense and security agenda. They will also be examining the war in Ukraine. Two logistical reasons for why Dayton was selected is its proximity to Wright-Patterson Air Force Base, a base that focuses on national security, and Dayton is the location where the Dayton Peace Accords were signed 30 years ago. The Accords aided in the ending of the Bosnian War. Congressman Mike Turner (OH-10), head of the U.S. delegation to the NATO Parliamentary Assembly, has been the driving force behind getting the Parliamentary Assembly to Dayton. During this five-day event NATO leaders will examine membership, defense funding, increasing fiscal contributions, strategic deterrence and transatlantic security bond. It is expected that at least two new plans will be proposed to assist in the aforementioned goals. The leaders wish to ensure Ukraine of their support in their fight for freedom and will be considering ways to enforce their support. Dr. Glen Duerr, professor of international studies at Cedarville University and a citizen of the United Kingdom, Canada, and the United States, is a nationally known expert on this subject and is available to speak to media regarding the NATO Spring Parliamentary Assembly and the implications is has for the U.S. and Dayton, Ohio. To schedule an interview, email Mark D. Weinstein, executive director of public relations at Cedarville University at mweinstein@cedarville.edu or click on his icon.
Aston University hosts event to foster innovation in crisis and disaster research
The two-day conference brought together academics and policy experts Its aim was to strengthen crisis and disaster research cooperation between institutions in Taiwan and Nepal with Hounslow Borough Council and Birmingham City Council The event laid the groundwork for ongoing cooperation and knowledge exchange in disaster management. Aston University has welcomed a delegation of global disaster management experts to a two-day conference aimed at fostering collaboration and innovation in crisis and disaster research. The event held at Conference Aston from 12 to 14 May 2024 brought together leading academics, policy experts and industry professionals, with a particular focus on strengthening cooperation between institutions in Taiwan and Nepal together with Hounslow Borough Council and Birmingham City Council. Since mid-2019, a concerted effort has been underway to harness innovative technologies for geoclimatic hazards monitoring in Nepal, the Philippines and Bhutan. Supported by the National Science and Technology Center for Disaster Reduction in Taiwan, this initiative has seen meaningful partnerships between British and Taiwanese stakeholders, driving advancements in real-time data capture for earthquake activity, rainfall patterns and wind dynamics crucial for effective crisis and disaster governance. Dr Komal Aryal, a lecturer in crisis and disaster management at Aston University, said: “I was wonderful to welcome such esteemed experts and colleagues to campus for this important event. “Sharing success stories and addressing implementation challenges to emerging technologies in local crisis and disaster management is vital in strengthening digital research infrastructure and networks at the grassroots level in countries like Nepal, Bhutan, the Philippines and other Himalayan regions. “The event served as a nexus for fostering partnerships among academia, policymakers, industries, emergency services and humanitarian volunteers across the UK, Nepal and Taiwan. “These collaborations are essential for driving impactful solutions and strategies in disaster management.” Professor Zoe Radnor, Pro-Vice-Chancellor and Executive Dean of the College of Business and Social Sciences at Aston University, said: “I’d like to thank everyone who attended this important event around disaster management. “It was wonderful to see the renewed commitment to enhancing crisis and disaster research cooperation which are integral to developing comprehensive and sustainable disaster response frameworks. “I am delighted to see draft plans produced for future joint collaborative activities, laying the groundwork for ongoing cooperation and knowledge exchange in disaster management.” Rev. Weilien Lin, programme secretary, Church and Society Committee, the Presbyterian Church in Taiwan, said: “This conference marks a significant step forward in our collective efforts to enhance global resilience to disasters. “By bringing together diverse expertise and fostering meaningful partnerships, we are better equipped to address the complex challenges posed by natural and man-made crises.” Professor Yie-Ru, from Chiu Tzu Chi University, Taiwan, said: “Aston University and Tzu Chi universities have entered into a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) to collaborate more closely in addressing disaster and crisis management studies not only in Taiwan and the United Kingdom but also abroad. “This partnership marks a significant step forward in our shared commitment to enhancing global preparedness and response to emergencies, fostering cooperation and knowledge exchange across borders.” Mayor Narulal Chaudhary, general secretary of Municipal Association of Nepal elected mayor of Ghorahi Sub Metropolitan City, said: “This relationship with Aston University stands as a testament to how collaboration can foster disaster resilience and fortify crisis management efforts, especially in regions like the Himalayas in South Asia where vulnerability to natural disasters like earthquakes is significant. “As someone elected as the mayor of Ghorahi Sub Metropolitan City, a region highly susceptible to earthquakes, I believe that such collaborations are crucial in equipping communities with the knowledge and resources needed to mitigate risks and respond effectively in times of crises.”
300 million tonnes of rice straw are burned after harvest in Asia every year Aston University will be contributing to new international project to unlock renewable energy potential Its researchers will lead on calculating the greenhouse gas emissions savings of new systems. Aston University researchers are helping to make rice straw processing in India and the Philippines less environmentally damaging. The University will be contributing to a new international collaboration, the Renewable, Inclusive Carbon-negative Energy (RICE) project, funded by Innovate UK Energy Catalyst programme to unlock renewable energy for rice farmers. Already the University has worked with UK company Straw Innovations in the Philippines and now the two are expanding their collaboration to benefit more of the continent. Aston University working with UK company Straw Innovations and Indian enterprise, Takachar Rice straw is a crop waste byproduct and each year across Asia 300 million tonnes of it go up in smoke when burnt after harvest. This releases emissions and air pollutants that triple risks of increased respiratory diseases and accelerate climate change. India and the Philippines are the world’s second and eighth largest rice producers respectively and together they produce 130 million tonnes of both rice and straw per year. Aston University and Straw Innovations and will be collaborating with an Indian award winning small and medium sized enterprise, Takachar. The firm has developed small scale, low-cost, portable equipment which can convert agricultural waste on-site into higher value bioproducts such as fertilizer blends, chemicals and biofuels. "The company will develop a super-sized version which is 10 times bigger than their current device, make it adaptable to rice mills, and will send it to Straw Innovations, so the two firms can test out different business models for farmer adoption/benefit. Straw Innovations will also send their machines from the Philippines to India mid-project and the two countries will test out different business models for farmer adoption/benefit. And for the first time they will tap into the heat produced in the waste process to dry rice, instead of using diesel or kerosene. University researchers will lead on assessing the sustainability of the project, calculating the greenhouse gas emissions savings of the new systems introduced by Straw Innovations and Takachar. Sustainability expert Dr Mirjam Röder will also engage with the farming community and rural stakeholders to quantify how the systems can increase farmer incomes, equality of opportunity, food security and decarbonisation benefits, whilst highlighting any trade-offs. Dr Röder who is based at Aston University’s Energy & Bioproducts Research Institute (EBRI) said: “Environmentally, rice produces 48% of all global crop emissions, due to methane from flooded fields. This is halved when the straw is removed and reduced further when its carbon is stored in biochar. We are aiming for carbon negative which means removing carbon dioxide (CO₂) from the atmosphere or sequestering more CO₂ than is emitted. “Our new research leads on from our rice straw bio gas hub project with Straw Innovations, SEARCA and Koolmill and we’re pleased to be building further relationships with new partners in India. In January Biomass and Bioenergy published a paper about the topic written by Dr Röder, the director of EBRI Professor Patricia Thornley and Craig Jamieson of Straw Innovations called The greenhouse gas performance and climate change mitigation potential from rice straw biogas as a pathway to the UN sustainable development goals. Craig Jamieson from Straw Innovations said "We’ve been pioneering rice straw work with the team at Aston University for the past seven years. We're delighted to continue that strong partnership and widen it to include Takachar in this new project. “Takachar is a leader in making biochar from crop residues and our partnership with them is very strategic. We look forward to combining our new improved straw harvesting technology with their scaled-up biochar production. It will be a step change, creating a new, more efficient system for carbon negative energy and soil improvement for rural communities across Asia." Vidyut Mohan who founded Takachar said: “We are excited to partner with Aston University and Straw Innovations. “Our combined solutions can significantly move the needle in reducing crop residue collection costs and biochar production costs for carbon removal." Notes to Editors Rice straw is a crop waste byproduct and each year across Asia 300 million tonnes of it go up in smoke when burnt after harvest https://tinyurl.com/2afjhhsj To read The greenhouse gas performance and climate change mitigation potential from rice straw biogas as a pathway to the UN sustainable development goals visit https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0961953424000254, Biomass and Bioenergy Volume 182, March 2024, 107072 Mirjam Röder and Patricia Thornley Energy & Bioproducts Research Institute (EBRI), College of Engineering and Physical Sciences, Aston University, Aston Triangle, Birmingham, B4 7ET, United Kingdom Craig Jamieson Straw Innovations Ltd., Lawes Open Innovation Hub, Rothamsted Research, West Common, Harpenden, HERTS, AL5 2JQ, United Kingdom https://doi.org/10.1016/j.biombioe.2024.107072 About Aston University For over a century, Aston University’s enduring purpose has been to make our world a better place through education, research and innovation, by enabling our students to succeed in work and life, and by supporting our communities to thrive economically, socially and culturally. Aston University’s history has been intertwined with the history of Birmingham, a remarkable city that once was the heartland of the Industrial Revolution and the manufacturing powerhouse of the world. Born out of the First Industrial Revolution, Aston University has a proud and distinct heritage dating back to our formation as the School of Metallurgy in 1875, the first UK College of Technology in 1951, gaining university status by Royal Charter in 1966, and becoming The Guardian University of the Year in 2020. Building on our outstanding past, we are now defining our place and role in the Fourth Industrial Revolution (and beyond) within a rapidly changing world. For media inquiries in relation to this release, contact Nicola Jones, Press and Communications Manager, on (+44) 7825 342091 or email: n.jones6@aston.ac.uk
Ask the expert: 2024 economic outlook
Although the economy has improved since the COVID-19 pandemic, inflation has been a challenge for many Americans throughout 2023 and the economy remains a top issue ahead of the 2024 election. Experts are already making predictions about interest rates, inflation and the market for next year. Antonio Doblas Madrid is an associate professor in the Department of Economics in Michigan State University’s College of Social Science. He reflects on the economy this past year and answers questions about what you can anticipate about the economy in 2024. What are a few of the most memorable economic events of 2023? The economy in 2023 reminds me of Rocky Balboa, the boxer with a strong chin from the Rocky films who, despite getting hit over and over, keeps moving forward. A year ago, the consensus prediction among investors and professional forecasters was slower growth and higher unemployment. Inflation was still above 6%, the Federal Reserve increased interest rates to one of the highest rates in 40 years, and the stock market ended 2022 in the red. Many observers said a ‘soft landing’ was a pipe dream and a recession inevitable. The year 2023 brought its own set of challenges. To name a few, a debt ceiling standoff started in January and continued until May, bringing the government dizzyingly close to default and causing a ratings downgrade. In March, the failure of Silicon Valley Bank started a crisis that, had it not been contained by a historic expansion of deposit guarantees, would have spread through the system and taken down the economy. A war broke out in Gaza. A large-scale auto workers strike temporarily shut down large parts of the sector. And the economy of China, a major trading partner, decelerated. Given all this, it is remarkable how good the numbers look right now. Inflation has steadily fallen to around 3% and is now within striking distance of the 2% target. The most recent gross domestic product, or GDP, report shows a robust 3% year-on-year growth rate, the unemployment rate remains at 3.7%, and the stock market has made a roaring comeback. The numbers look stronger than those of other major advanced economies, such as the eurozone, the United Kingdom, Japan or Canada. However, it is too early for a victory parade. The fight against inflation is not over, monetary policy has long and variable lags and, even in a strong economy, many people are struggling. But, thus far, it is hard to imagine a softer landing than 2023. What’s expected to happen with the economy in 2024? With the usual caveat that even the best predictions have a margin of error, professional forecasters see the economy still growing in 2024, albeit more slowly. The numbers hover around 1.5% for real GDP growth and 4% for the rate of unemployment. This paints a picture of moderate growth, and a labor market that, while no longer crushing records, is still within the range of what can be called full employment. What’s predicted to happen with inflation? Forecasters and market-based measures of expectations both predict that inflation is likely to continue falling gradually in 2024, to about 2.5%. Thus, the inflation shock that hit the economy is expected to continue fading, although it may take some time to go that last mile from 3% to 2%. The Fed also appears to be quite optimistic on inflation, given its latest forward guidance. What will happen with interest rates in the new year? The Fed expects inflation to fall quickly, so quickly, in fact, that it has started to reverse the hawkish policy of the last two years in its forward guidance. This means that, although the Fed has not lowered interest rates yet, it has started talking about the possibility of rate cuts — three of them — in 2024. With the economy still at full employment, this clearly means that the Fed is expecting inflation to continue to fall. How could the presidential election affect the economy? There is a popular belief that election uncertainty is detrimental to the economy, but we do not really see that in the GDP data. Growth rates in presidential election years are not lower than average. On average over the last few decades, there is a small negative effect on the stock market in election years, but it disappears in the 12 months following the election, regardless of which party is elected. What economic words of wisdom can you share for 2024? It seems to me that the perception of the economy is worse than the reality. So, I would recommend stepping away from the noise and looking at the data for some objective measures. As far as saving for retirement goes, I think mainstream financial advice is solid. So, listen to your financial advisor if you have one. If you don’t, that’s okay, it is not that hard. There are many free tools, like retirement calculators, to help you figure out how much to set aside monthly. Take advantage of employer-provided and tax incentives. Invest mostly in stocks when young, gradually switching to fixed income as you age. For equities, follow a passive strategy. Buy and hold index funds. Do not try to pick stocks or time the market. If you are at the fixed-income stage, you may want to open a high-interest CD to lock in a high rate before the Fed starts cutting rates again. Finally, set up your contributions automatically draw, stop thinking about money for a few months and invest instead in nonfinancial assets, like relationships and health. Looking to know more about the economic outlook for 2024 or do you want to connect with Antonio Doblas Madrid? To schedule an interview - simply contact Jack Harrison, Public Relations Coordinator today.
Covering King Charles? Our Expert can Help
It's news that has shocked the world and has citizens across Britain and the Commonwealth as well loyal watchers of the British monarchy in deep concern. This week, King Charles was diagnosed with cancer. News was released Monday in a statement from the palalce. This news will raise many questions both in the UK and abroad. Will his medical condition make him consider stepping down? Is William ready to be King? Is there still a time, place and relevance for Royals in these modern times? If you're covering - let our experts help. Dr. Glen Duerr is a citizen of three countries. He was born in the United Kingdom, moved to Canada as a teenager, and then to the United States to obtain his Ph.D. His teaching and research interests comparative politics and international relations theory. Dr. Duerr is available to speak to media regarding this topic– simply click on his icon to arrange an interview.
Aston University appoints new Deputy Vice-Chancellor Academic
Professor Osama Khan has nearly 20 years’ experience as an academic leader and innovator He will lead academic strategy, new educational model and student experience strategy in line with Aston 2030 Strategy Osama will join Aston University in October 2023. Aston University has appointed Professor Osama Khan as its new Deputy Vice-Chancellor Academic. With a successful career in higher education for nearly 20 years, Professor Khan will be joining Aston University from the University of Surrey where he is currently Pro-Vice-Chancellor Academic, leading on education strategy, teaching excellence and student learning experience. In his new role, he will play a central part in the development of Aston University’s academic strategy in line with the University 2030 Strategy. Responsibilities will include leading the University's academic portfolio incorporating education, curriculum, digital offerings, careers and placements, library and information services, student experience and services. Educated at Independent University, Bangladesh, University of Surrey and University of Cambridge, Osama began his academic career as a lecturer (and then senior teaching fellow) at University of Surrey in 2004. He moved to Solent University in 2012, where he held a variety of roles including director of learning and teaching at Solent Learning and Teaching Institute. He was appointed the first Pro Vice-Chancellor, Students and Teaching at Solent University leading on curriculum, digital services, learning space transformation. He was appointed as Vice-Provost, Education at University of Surrey in 2019. Subsequently his remit extended to form the Pro Vice-Chancellor, Academic portfolio with responsibility for education, curriculum, student services, digital transformation, and learning spaces. He has 25 years of teaching experience in corporate finance at various renowned universities. Professor Aleks Subic, Vice-Chancellor and Chief Executive of Aston University, said: “I am delighted to welcome Osama to Aston University and the executive team at a crucial time when we are shaping our bold strategy for 2030 and beyond. “Osama is a proven academic leader and innovator, who has who has achieved sector leading outcomes in student experience and educational quality. His strong commitment to values-based leadership is aligned well with our approach to working with our people and the diverse communities we serve. “I look forward to working with Osama to position Aston University as the leading university in the United Kingdom for student experience, employability and social mobility.” Professor Osama Khan said: “Aston University's unwavering commitment to academic excellence, coupled with its dedication to equality, diversity and inclusion, resonates deeply with me. Moreover, I commend Aston University's efforts in narrowing the awarding gaps, striving for equity in education and promoting fairness in the academic journey, for it is through education that we empower generations and create lasting impact. “I am honoured to join this creative institution as its next Deputy Vice-Chancellor Academic, where we will prioritise inclusive education and foster an environment where every individual can thrive and succeed. “I eagerly look forward to working with our exceptional faculty, dedicated staff, and talented students to shape the next chapter of excellence through the new Aston University 2030 strategy. Together, we will transform lives, foster innovation and forge a path towards a brighter tomorrow." Professor Khan will be taking up his post in October 2023.
Coronation of King Charles III: Augusta University professor talks about what to expect
Eyes from around the world will be on Westminster Abbey in London this weekend as King Charles III is crowned king following the passing his mother Queen Elizabeth II on Sept. 8, 2022. As you might expect, there will be plenty of pageantry involved with the ceremony. Ruth McClelland-Nugent, PhD, is chair of History, Anthropology and Philosophy at Pamplin College of Arts, Humanities, and Social Sciences at Augusta University and an expert on the royal family. McClelland-Nugent said this is a major day for those in the United Kingdom, and to a lesser extent, some parts of the Commonwealth "where the British monarch is still monarch, such as Charles will become king of Canada as well as the U.K." The coronation is a religious service of the Church of England, so there will be a number of traditions upheld, such as anointing of the king with blessed oil, and by the end of the ceremony, Charles will have officially received his crown and his scepter, as well as the traditional robes and stole that mark him as king. The crown and the orb that will be used during the coronation date back to 1661 for King Charles II. New crowns were needed after the Puritans melted the old ones down during the English Civil Wars. “These are very traditional things, and reinforce the ancient idea that the monarch is selected by God to have authority over people,” said McClelland-Nugent. "However, for the first time, there will be participation from clergy of other faiths as well, since the king has invited clergy from the Jewish, Sikh, Hindu, Muslim and Buddhist faiths to participate, reflecting the great religious diversity in the U.K.” She also said those watching the coronation, in-person or virtually, will be invited to swear an oath of allegiance to the monarch, giving the entire country a role in the ceremony for the first time. “It will probably feel very formal and ancient to any Americans who watch it, and it is, but it will be the most informal and diverse coronation in recent British history,” McClelland-Nugent said. Others in the royal family will also play roles in the ceremony. Queen Camilla will be crowned alongside Charles. Princess Anne, Charles' sister, will lead a procession of armed forces and other personnel behind the new king and queen when they leave Westminster Abbey. “Look for her to be on horseback. This is a highly prestigious role and not one carried out by a woman previously.” McClelland-Nugent said Prince William, Prince of Wales, who is now heir to the crown, will make an oath of loyalty directly to the newly crowned king. Some of the king’s grandchildren and queen’s grandchildren will also serve roles during the coronation. If you're a reporter covering the coronation and all the events leading up to it this week, then let our experts help with your stories. Ruth McClelland-Nugent is available for interviews; simply click on her icon now to arrange a time to talk today.
Expert Opinion: Real Fur? It’s Just Not in Vogue Anymore!
Back in 1994, animal rights organization PETA launched what would become one of the most iconic campaigns of the decade – and beyond. “I’d rather go naked than wear fur,” sparked a slew of headlines internationally and won support from celebrities such as Naomi Campbell, Gillian Anderson, Pamela Anderson, and others; many of whom agreed to pose nude or semi-naked in support of the anti-fur movement. Three decades on, in February 2020, PETA announced it was retiring the campaign, saying it was “no longer necessary” and citing the “demise of the trade.” Evidence suggests they are right. Since the early noughties, the use of fur among the world’s foremost luxury fashion houses has steadily declined. The production of mink and other pelts–an industry valued at $1.8 billion in the late 80s–has declined in America by around 45 percent in the last 20 years, according to the Department of Agriculture. Meanwhile, high-end fashion brands like Gucci, Vivienne Westwood, and Stella McCartney have pledged to go fur-free, with Fendi, Saint Laurent, and others set to follow suit in 2022. Fur has never been less fashionable. But can activism alone claim victory in the fight for more ethical fashion practices? Emory’s Giacomo Negro, professor of Organization & Management and professor of sociology (by courtesy), has released new research that suggests another major factor played a key role in the process that led to the abandonment of fur; and it’s none other than perennial style bible, Vogue. When Vogue Speaks, People Listen We know that the use of fur has been dropping off steadily on the supply side, on the part of producers and manufacturers themselves, in the last two decades. What we didn’t know was how much of this was down to pressure from PETA and other highly-visible activism. Or whether there might be other forces at play–industry intermediaries that have a gatekeeping function, such as the fashion press, exerting a more subtle but just as powerful influence on the producers of fur. - Giacomo Negro, professor of Organization & Management Hypothesizing this to be the case, Negro teamed up with INSEAD’s Frederic Godart and Greta Hsu of the University of California. First off, they had to determine the most important and global of fashion’s gatekeepers. “There are other publications, but Vogue is undoubtedly a significant force in fashion. The magazine has long occupied a unique position that is neither an insider nor an outsider in the sense that its editors are intimately connected to the top designers and decision-makers in the industry; simultaneously, it’s an external, independent publication with global reach and singularly powerful influence on fashion’s views and tastes.” If Vogue were to take a certain view of the use of fur in clothing over time, would fashion houses take note and follow suit, the researchers wondered? To test this, Negro et al put together a largescale dataset integrating data from more than 18 years of Vogue’s runway reports: features covering fashion shows in Paris, Milan, London, and New York between Spring 2000 and Fall 2018. The set included 670 fashion houses hosting at least two runway shows in this period, focusing on women’s prêt-à-porter designs. Next, the researchers ran an analysis across the texts published by Vogue after each show. They coded words relating to the moral and ethical dimensions of fur use. “When Vogue publishes a report, you don’t just get a review of the collections,” says Negro. “You also get the magazine’s opinion and appraisal of the clothing.” Fur Ethics and the Decline of a Centuries-Old Industry Parsing the attention to fur ethics expressed in these reports and looking at the frequency of the appearance of fur on runways over time, he and his colleagues found something striking: a clear, quantitative correlation between the magazine’s coverage of fur ethics and a drop off in its use by fashion houses, starting in 2011. “From around 2009, Vogue starts referencing the ethical and social concerns around fur and this continues through to 2014. In 2011, you begin to see a steady decline that follows in the use and appearance of fur on catwalks in the major fashion capitals of the world.” But could this simply be credited to an increase in activism at the same time? Unlikely, says Negro. He and his colleagues also looked at data on media coverage of anti-fur events in France, Italy, the United Kingdom, and the U.S. and failed to establish any meaningful correlation with Vogue’s editorial position over the same period. “What seems most plausible is that as an influential industry gatekeeper, Vogue was driving a change in views on fur ethics and fur use, alongside its own changing position on the ethics of fur,” says Negro. And it’s interesting to remember that fashion, like other creative industries, tends to operate in accordance with its own set of rules and its ‘artistic freedom.’ When activists targeted Jean Paul Gaultier’s Fall Show of 2009, he simply announced that he loved fur and would continue using it. However, when Vogue starts weighing in with an opinion, that’s when designers start following suit. - Giacomo Negro, professor of Organization & Management Which isn’t to say that activism did not have a critical role, he adds. In leading and reshaping the conversation around fur over the last three decades, PETA and others have brought the key issues to the attention of the world’s media like no other, says Godart: “Our findings also suggest that specific forms of anti-fur activism such as advertising campaigns, and legal maneuvers, became effective in influencing fashion houses’ decisions to move away from fur when amplified by Vogue’s references to moral concerns around fur use.” For any business or industry looking to navigate changing perceptions, tastes, or sentiments, gatekeeper entities–intermediaries like experts, media publications, and others–can provide useful signals that can help strategic decision-making, say Negro, Godart, and Hsu. Though in the age of social media, it may become that much more difficult to distinguish signals from noise. Proactive organizations might do well to identify and engage with social movements and gatekeepers ahead of change, they say, rather than bide their time until pressure forces their hand. Interested in learning more? Then let us help with your questions or coverage. Giacomo Negro is a professor of Organization & Management and Professor of Sociology at the Goizueta Business School at Emory University. Simply click on his icon now to connect and arrange an interview.
